Timeless. Minimalist. Sculptural.
These are some of the many adjectives that can be associated with Hamethop. Established in 2015 by Tsakani Mashaba, the brand specializes in creating artisanal handbags and womenswear using ethically sourced leather for their bags and recycled fabrics.
Their designs take inspiration from African art, architecture, and traditions to produce outstanding works of art. The patterns and colour decoration on the clothes and accessories are inspired by Ndebele artwork. Their popular Tiébélé art bags are an ode to the homes of the oldest ethnic groups in Africa. The surges of symmetry in their designs resemble the works of Bodys Isek Kingelez.
But beyond making aesthetically clean garments and accessories, Hamethop prides itself on using art to communicate meaningful stories and abstract ideas through fashion. Their latest collection, Rat Race, explored the pressures of the capitalistic grind of ‘getting the bag.’
Image courtesy of Tsakani Mashaba
Bubblegum Club catches up with Mashaba who provides insight into the brand and business of Hamethop.
Lee Nxumalo: Do you remember what your first introduction to fashion was?
Tsakani Mashaba: Growing up, I found myself sketching figures and portraits. I was always passionate about design and expressing myself through creative forms. However, when I got to university, I could not study fashion because at the time my father didn’t see it as a viable career. Instead, I graduated in marketing, which was the closest qualification to design for me then.
But my big introduction to fashion came when I designed my clothes while studying at university.
Lee Nxumalo: What was the pathway into fashion and creating your brand?
Tsakani Mashaba: I’ve always been introverted, so I never imagined myself as the face or founder of a fashion brand. Regardless, when I left my job as a creative director for an advertising agency, I knew I wanted to do something more meaningful. Fashion became the platform to express myself because it was easily accessible to me.
Working in marketing, I have always been drawn to creative people and product design. When I launched Hamethop, I wanted to express a new and different point of view.
Images by Lesedi Goulanka
Lee Nxumalo: Did the ready-to-wear line come first, or was it the accessories?
Tsakani Mashaba: The accessories came first. I came up with the idea for my handbags while travelling in Ethiopia, where I met some local artisans, and I was intrigued by their skills and creativity.
As the brand evolved, I realized I needed to express myself through apparel as well. Additionally, from a business point of view, it made sense to diversify our product offering.
Lee Nxumalo: What is your design process?
Tsakani Mashaba: Collaboration is at the core of Hamethop, so I work with others to realize and magnify my ideas. It always begins with a dream for a concept and then figuring out how to bring that dream to life in a way that feels most authentic to us.
Lee Nxumalo: What is the most exciting part for you in that process?
Tsakani Mashaba: Research because it filters my thoughts, enhances, and validates my ideas. I also enjoy collaborating with factories, creatives, and crafters. The design process is another exciting element for me. But once a product or design is completed, it feels like it’s over. I always like to hold to the process of iterating and improving design concepts.
Lee Nxumalo: What mistakes have you made in your business that were essential for your personal and entrepreneurial growth?
Tsakani Mashaba: Creating for myself and not considering the market in which I exist. I tend to design conceptually, which can be challenging in a market where ideas have to be relatable and sellable.
Furthermore, I’m still learning to bring together the right team. I’ve realized that working with ambitious and enthusiastic people is essential. An emerging brand relies on experienced people who are self-driven.
Lee Nxumalo: What are you still eager to do that you haven’t done yet?
Tsakani Mashaba: I would like to get into furniture design. That’s a space I’m excited to explore in the future.
Images by Lesedi Goulanka