Mali has a long tradition of weaving that has given a rise to its textile industry. The country is one of the world leaders in the production and exportation of ginned cotton fibre. It is also known for the production of Bazin, mud cloth and other hand-dyed fabrics.
The vitality of this industry has offered a window of opportunity in fashion and created an informal economy that has particularly empowered women – whether they are designers, weavers, or tailors.
Oudy Keïta is one of those women. Originally from Savigny-le temple in France, her background is in business and she had no formal education in fashion or design. However, she did have an undying passion not only for textiles and designs but for her continent. That would be the foundation for her sustainable brand, Oudy K. It was started in 2018 and is based in the nation’s capital of Bamako.
Bubblegum Club sits down with Oudy Keita to talk about the development and growth of the brand.
Lee Nxumalo: How did you first develop a love for fashion?
Oudy Keita: Since I was a child, I have [always] been interested in arts and crafts activities. For example, I enjoyed dancing, singing, and drawing. It is not something new. I used to love clothes and I would design. When I grew up, my sense of fashion grew bigger.
Lee Nxumalo: What was your pathway into fashion?
Oudy Keita: When I left my family to go to business school, I studied management. I felt a little lost because I was not with my family and relatives and the people there did not look like me so I moved closer to my first love which was fashion. I started researching African designers and discovered some on Instagram. Then, I started my blog where I shared my vision and ideas around Afropolitan fashion.
With each of the designers, I found something [that I liked] but at the same time, none of them had what I was looking for so that’s where the idea came to launch my brand.
Lee Nxumalo: How did you go about developing the aesthetic of Oudy K?
Oudy Keita: The brand is attached to who I am, my experiences, and my daily life. Each collection has a story and underlines a step in my life. For example, the first collection called Bamako Vibes was created before I went to Bamako and at that time, I knew that I would go to Bamako to launch a branch. It was about my feelings about the city of Bamako and my imagination of the country. The second collection was called Kow Bey because when I arrived in Bamako, I connected with a lot of people – from artists to models – in Bamako.
Lee Nxumalo: What is your process when creating a new line?
Oudy Keita: First, I think it is important to say that I didn’t take fashion courses or go to fashion school so my creative process is not common. I decide to create only when I am inspired. I make drawings with a lot of explanations because I’m not a technical fashion drawer and I tend to explain what I think. I have a lot of discussions with my atelier and then I’ll look for fabrics. I want to create clothes that people can wear in their daily lives so when I decide to create, I think about that.
Lee Nxumalo: Are there any challenges you face as a sustainable brand in Africa?
Oudy Keita: The lack of diversity in [terms of] fabric. We have no access to certain kinds of fabric so in order to find it, we have to do a lot of research and collaborate with artisans to create a certain kind of jeans, for example.
Lee Nxumalo: What do you think the world can learn from Africa about sustainability in Africa?
Oudy Keita: I think people can learn about simplicity. With simplicity, you can still create magic.
This story is produced in the context of an editorial residency supported by Pro Helvetia Johannesburg, the Swiss Arts Council.
