On Saturday, 10 December 2022 – a month ago – Thebe Magugu invited friends and admirers of the brand to celebrate 5 years of the brand at The Pyramid Conference Centre in central Johannesburg. What was described by social media users who were in attendance as a phenomenal party was a beautiful spectacle and a celebration of 5 years of the Kimberly born designer’s eponymous lovechild. Starting as a heritage brand, reflective of the designer’s experiences in his hometown – and as a South African, on a larger scale – the brand has become one of the biggest fashion names in Africa, going through the glass ceilings that once contained African designers, and making something entirely new and beautiful with the shards that fell. Join us in a reflection of the brand’s 5 year journey, with 5 highlights.
The brands extensive history of community engagement
Never losing sight of the context of the brand, Thebe Magugu has always stayed true to the communities and people who make the brand, even before it was a brand. In a video with i-D Magazine, covering the party, Magugu himself says, “Because the pandemic had disrupted schools especially in Kimberly, we created a special Thebe Magugu x Adidas that we then handed out to schools in the township.” In a very scary time, just entering 2021, the masks were a refreshing gesture of the fashion industry, which has historically been apathetic to the conditions of the world. A year later, Thebe Magugu collaborated with Dior to create a capsule collection (which so seamlessly merged the styles of the two fashion houses) which would serve to benefit the Charlize Theron Africa Outreach Project (CTAOP).
“Counter Intelligence” collection and reflections on Apartheid history
The brand’s SS21 Collection, entitled “Counter Intelligence”, is a collection inspired by South Africa’s dark past of Apartheid. More specifically, the designer had a close look at the role of espionage as carried out by the covert, femme spies. Once again, the fashion industry takes a new direction in reflecting upon the dark histories which don’t occupy the glam spaces of the catwalk. The collection, inspired by interviews orchestrated by Magugu himself and actual spies, produced an intriguing fashion film.
Thebe Magugu wins the LMVH Young Fashion Designer Prize
The prestigious prize organised by LMVH – which specialises in producing luxury goods and is parents to houses such as Fendi, Dior, Louis Vuitton and Givenchy – awards the recipient €300 000 and mentorship from the conglomerate. With Thebe Magugu winning the prize, they became the first African brand to receive the prize. The award started a long term relationship with names such as Anna Wintour become brands of the brand.
Thebe Magugu takes Dover Street Market
After transcending the streets of Johannesburg and becoming an international name, amidst the burning flames that was the pandemic, Thebe Magugu took the one of the biggest streets in the street fashion game: Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe lovechild, Dover Street Market. As a spin on the British fashion hub, The Kengsington Market, the store franchise is found in all corners of the world, from New York to Beijing. Home to both high fashion and streetwear brands, it was supposed to be a third space of sort, making room for unconventional artistic routes. As a total diversion from the typically highly sophisticated Thebe Magugu brand, the line sold on Dover Street Market, branded as “EXTRA CURRICULAR”, featured T Shirts with designs in the art style of Magugu’s personal Instagram posts at the time.
Cultural exchange with Valentino
Possibly one of the most exciting moments not just for the Thebe Magugu brand, but for the 2022 fashion scene at large, Thebe Magugu engaged in an exchange with historically haute couture brand Valentino. Magugu and Valentino creative director, Pierpaolo Piccioli. The two sent each other signature pieces from their fashion catalogue and gave their own artistic rendition of the work. Magugu took the beautiful PP Pink gown and gave it the culturally familiar feel of clothing he’d seen growing up, all the while resonating with its glamour.
As exciting as the above are, it doesn’t cover the full exciting journey of a young South African fashion designer who boasts dressing stars of the stars such as Rihanna, Issa Rae and Tracee Ellis Ross. It also doesn’t begin to predict the exciting trajectory of the brand and where it may go. In another 5 years, we can’t wait to see what other major highlights the Joburg based power house may produce.
