For their first season in 2017, the new fashion label Section 8 was surrounded by a cloud of mystery, as the designers wanted to remain anonymous. However, Vogue managed to do some digging and found out that London designer Ryohei Kawanishi and stylist Akeem Smith are rumoured to be a part of the team. The decision for the team to remain anonymous is political. It is in reaction to the times we live in, where everyone is looking for large scale attention and influence. What did attract much attention, however, was having the models for their debut collection walk down the runway with dead koi fish in their mouths. The shock this raised in audiences resembled the reasoning behind the seemingly outrageous gesture. It was playing on the idiom ‘a fish out of water’, referencing the fact that the Section 8 team are exploring a new territory together.
The garments were inspired by what the team imagined an intern working in the Trump campaign would have worn – making the collection a commentary on the increased conservatism in America guided by Donald Trump. The business casual, office-to-evening designs were reminders of 80s and 90s silhouettes which collapsed and gave way over the bodies of the models. Bland colours were combined with the combination of re-worked low fashion garments.
Building on the curiosity and fascination engendered from last season, Section 8 shared their latest ready-to-wear collection in a secluded church yard in Paris earlier this month . Titled ‘Free, white, and 21’ the runway saw models of colour wearing blonde wigs and blue contact lenses. The title is a phrase that appeared in multiple movies in the 20s and 30s in America, relating to unchecked and untamed privilege. Section 8 provocatively use the term as a reflection on its relevance in America today.
Addressing sociopolitical and economic issues is the name of the game with this new label, and this is evident right from the label’s conception. Section 8 refers to a the low-income housing program in the US. The idea behind this is that instead of money being spent to build public housing, families are given vouchers to cover part or all of their renting costs from private property owners.
Section 8 is demonstrating the importance of using fashion as a medium for disruption and critique. The fashion world has its eye on the label to see what they will come up with for their next collection.
